The Sagebrushers — JJM's diary of the July-August 1907 Yellowstone Park trip

# The SagebrushersButte: companies, unions & placesSagebrushersYellowstone slang for visitors who toured the park with their own wagon and camped along the road, as against the "dudes" who went by coach from hotel to hotel.More in Key terms → — James J. Murphy's diary of a 1907 wagon trip to Yellowstone Verbatim text of *The Sagebrushers: Jim Murphy's Travelogue through Yellowstone National Park, Told in His Own Words*, "by James J. Murphy" (Murphy Press, © 1994): a comb-bound booklet that Dan Murphy typed from Imelda (Murphy) Bryant's typescript of the original handwritten diary. Read from `source.pdf`, Dan Murphy's scan of 4 February 2018, in which each PDF page is a two-page spread. - First transcribed in May 2026. Checked on 28 September 2026 against an independent second reading of every page and against Dan Murphy's born-digital 2013 Word file of the same text, with each difference settled from 200- and 300-dpi page images (see `research/docs/sagebrushers-thread-2026-09-28.md`). - `--- page N ---` marks a PDF page and `[booklet p. N]` the booklet's printed page (p. 1 has no printed number). Cite the booklet page. - The text follows the booklet, including its spellings and slips (for example "Fire Hob", "Kipplee Cascades", "Woodrow Mountains"). Day headings are underlined in print. `{Jim's best friend}` (party list), `{to Aggie?—ed.}` (p. 1) and `[Ed. …]` (p. 34) are Dan Murphy's 1994 notes as printed; they are not in JJM's original diary. Four pages of the original are transcribed in `1907-07-25_jjm-diary-manuscript_four-scanned-pages`. They show that the booklet's text is lightly edited, and that its heading "Party pairs" reads "Party composed." in the original. Other square brackets are this transcription's descriptions of pictures and blank pages; `[?]` marks an uncertain reading of handwriting on the certificates. - The diary uses the racial language of 1907 (pp. 4 and 8). It is transcribed as printed. --- page 1 --- **The Sagebrushers** by James J. Murphy Murphy Press © 1994 --- page 2 --- **THE SAGEBRUSHERS** Jim Murphy's Travelogue through Yellowstone National Park Told in His Own Words --- page 3 --- [blank page] --- page 4 --- Dad's first trip to Yellowstone Park, the year before we were married. You could really make a good story of this if you wanted to do so. It's great reading, especially when I remember I was 'His Hon'! — Agnes (Bridget) Ruth (Kelly) Murphy --- page 5 --- [blank page] --- page 6 --- *Preface* Who would have thought they said "It was out of sight" almost a hundred years ago! That was just one of the many things I learned about my Grandfather Jim and the days and country he lived in. He seems like a wonderful human being — self-confident and friendly with even the briefest acquaintance, but not averse to some raucous fun at the expense of the "dudes." He loved his "grand" sights, so I also learned where my father got his love of sunsets. His warmth and gift of blarney attracted men and women alike. Jim Murphy seems like a fun guy. I wish I could have made the trip with him. Many thanks to Imelda Bryant for doing the original typing on — can you believe it — a manual typewriter! I truly know the effort it took. Someday I hope to set eyes on the original diary. I wanted to include a family tree, but I've long since lost the one I made in grade school and, I must confess, my memory is ill-suited to older names and relationships. If anyone can contribute a bit of family history, please write me and I'll send out addenda. - Dan Murphy, 1994 --- page 7 --- [Two oval portrait photographs with captions:] Jim Murphy | Aggie Murphy --- page 8 --- [Certificate of Marriage — handwritten on printed form] **Certificate of Marriage** Church of St Lawrence O'Toole, WalkervilleButte: companies, unions & placesWalkervilleA separate small city on the hill above Butte, grown up around the Alice and Lexington silver mines.More in Key terms →, Mont. This is to Certify That James Murphy and Agnes Kelly were lawfully Married on the 19th day of Oct., 1908, According to the Rite of the Roman Catholic Church and in conformity with the laws of the State of Montana, Rev. Fr Batens officiating, in the presence of Charles Gallagher and Mary Kelly Witnesses, as appears from the Marriage Register of this Church. Dated DEC 5th 1946 [Signed:] T.[?] K. MacDonald, Pastor. NO. 212 © D. P. MURPHY CO., NEW YORK --- page 9 --- [Two certificates side by side] **Birth and Baptismal Certificate** DIOCESE OF Kerry. PARISH OF Eyeries. On examination of the Register of Baptisms of above Parish I certify that according to it James Murphy was born on 26th day of July 1883, and was baptized according to the Rites of the Catholic Church on 29th day of July 1883, in the Church of Eyeries by the Rev. J. O'Connell. Parents { Patrick Murphy / Ellen Lyne } Sponsors { Michael Murphy / Catherine Murphy } (L.S.) Confirmed: [blank]. Married: [blank]. Signed Thomas Mc Mahon, P.P. Given this 27th day of October 19 71 at Eyeries (Born in the townland of Sleave.) Veritas Co., Ltd., Dublin. --- **Certificate of Baptism** St. Patrick's Church, Butte, Montana This is to Certify That Agnes Bridget Kelly Child of John Kelly and Mary Chatham born in Butte, Montana on the 29th day of June 1887 was Baptized on the 2nd day of July 1887 According to the Rite of the Roman Catholic Church by the Rev. Henry J. van de Ven, the Sponsors being John Cadigan and Emma Mullaney as appears from the Baptismal Register of this Church. Dated December 6, 1946. [Signed:] M. M. English, Pastor. by [?] C. Molloy NO. 21[?] © D. P. MURPHY CO., NEW YORK --- page 10 --- [Naturalization Certificate] **United States of America** Petition No. 1872 Certificate No. 1712 In the District Court of the Second Judicial District ...of the... **State of Montana** In and for the County of Silver Bow To All People to Whom These Presents Shall Come: **GREETING:** Know Ye, That in the District Court of the Second Judicial District of the State of Montana, in and for the County of Silver Bow, on the 26 day of Sept., in the year of our Lord one thousand nine hundred and Six J. J. Murphy, a native of Ireland, having produced the evidence, and taken and subscribed the oath required by law, and the affidavits required by Acts of Congress, entitled "An Act to regulate the immigration of Aliens into the United States", approved March 3rd, 1903, having been duly made and recorded, was admitted to become a citizen of the United States, according to the Act of Congress in such case made and provided. Witnesses: Martin Towey. C. H. Gallagher. In Testimony Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and affixed the Seal of said Court, at Butte, Montana, this 26 day of Sept., A. D. 1906 and in the year of Independence of the United States of America One Hundred and [crossed out: Twenty] & 30. William E. Davies, Clerk. By W. J. Thomas, Deputy. BUTTE MINER CO. PRINTERS --- page 11 --- The story begins in 1907 on the eve of Jim's twenty-third birthday. **Yellowstone National Park Trip** **by** **James J. Murphy** Party pairs: - Jim Murphy - Maud Sheehan - Tish Maloney {Jim's best friend} - Grace Dawson - Kate Cosgrove - Nell Cosgrove - George Archibald - May Konen - William Thoroway - Mrs. Wm. Thoroway - Owen Brinton - Ann Laughrin Cook and Husband: Mr. and Mrs. Charles (Charlie) Emerson Horses: Sandy, Ginger, Dwella --- page 12 --- [left half blank] [booklet p. 1 — no printed page number] ## First Day, July 25, 1907 — Thursday Rose at 5:30, reached Archibald's house at 6:30, started to pack our wagons and hitch our horses. The chuck wagon was started alright, both horses rearing and plunging like circus horses. But when it came to start with our horses, there is a different story. We had to hitch and unhitch a dozen different times. At last they broke an iron on our wagon. We had it fixed, and then sent for the owner of the horses and we prepared to lynch him — but watch the change! He switched horses, putting the white bronc in with our bay, and lo they walked off like a couple of lambs. We then drove to Konen's to get the girls. Mrs. Konen, in the meantime, had fixed up a light lunch for us. We then started at 11:30 am. Coming up the 18-mile hill, we had to have a farmer pull the chuck wagon up for a mile. We pitched camp about a mile this side of Bennell Ranch. ## Second Day, July 26 — Friday We rose at 6:30, left camp at 9 am. We passed through the little burgs of Silver Star (where I sent a postal card {to Aggie?—ed.}), Waterloo, Mammoth, Iron Pond, and Twin Bridges. Going west from Twin Bridges, we saw the old race track and --- page 13 --- [booklet p. 2] prepared to camp. The chuck wagon failed to show up so we had to break camp and turn back to Twin Bridges. We sent Thoroway ahead to locate the chuck wagon if possible. We located it at a ranch house where he had supper all ready. As it was very late, we had to put candles on the table. There were three candles, so I think they must have fixed it up for me as it was my birthday, and they just used the candles over twenty. We ate heartily as we'd been riding all day and had nothing to eat since 12 noon. I met a little kid that was staying at the ranch. He was the wisest little guessabo I ever saw. He said his uncle by the name of Orr owned the ranch, but had leased it to another man and his wife that is not his wife yet, but going to be. It was too late to pitch our tents, so we got permission from the rancher to sleep in the hay loft. So we all piled in there — girls and boys. There were pigeons flying around, scared by the light. It was a good thing they weren't cows. There were also field mice but the girls didn't know it until next morning. All slept well. ## Third Day, July 27 — Saturday We left Orr's place at 8:30. It was a very warm day. We passed through Sheridan, from which place I sent five postals purchased in the town. We passed through Lauren and Ruby, and camped three miles past the last place. I went shooting. After I came back, Thoroway, Brinton and myself shaved. Supper at 7:30 and retired. [booklet p. 3] ## Fourth Day, July 28 — Sunday We left camp at 8:30 and had nothing of importance occur until we reached Virginia City. Riding up the main street, a fellow hailed me. I stopped and recognized an old college chum from Butte. He had been down there a year and a half, and is now married. We went to a store where Grace, Maud and myself had an ice cream soda. I sent five postals. We then went to see people that the Konens knew by the name of Kemmerer. There, Brinton and myself punched the bag. Brin and Grace played the piano. We all got around and sang all the popular songs we knew. In the meantime, it began to rain fiercely. As soon as the rain abated we went back to our wagons. Maud, Grace and myself posed in the middle of the street for our pictures, and all the Virginia rubes looked on. As we were pulling our freight out of town, the farmer store keeper who'd sold us our ice cream sodas, came up and said he was going to give me a souvenir of Virginia City. It was a page out of his father's day book in the year 1866 showing the enormous prices he received at that time for merchandise. Going over the Virginia hills we again got caught in the rain. The other people had to unhitch and assist the chuck wagon up the first hill. I unhitched and went down half way to get the other wagon. But as they had removed the singletrees, I could not get it up. Back I tramped, hitched up, and waited for the rain to stop. Tish, Grace, Nell and Maud were, in the meantime, climbing the hill out in the rain and wet all through. Maud took ill. --- page 14 --- [booklet p. 4] As soon as the rain stopped, we started for the lakes that we'd been told were to the north. We finally reached them with our passenger wagons, but the chuck wagon was again stuck, so while the others raised the tents and got everything in readiness, I drove down the other two horses while Tish carried the singletrees against a strong wind for about a mile. We got to the chuck wagon and started up. On our way we met a colored sheep herder and Charlie gave him a drink of 'skey, which he more than appreciated as you could see by his looks and words. We finally got the chuck to camp, had supper in the tent and went to bed. [Diagram, set into the text: a two-horse team hitched to a wagon, seen from above, labelled "wheel" (twice), "wagon", "pole", "double-tree", "singletree" (twice), "trace" (four times) and "horse" (twice). No initials.] [booklet p. 5] ## Fifth Day, July 29 — Monday We started to leave camp at about 8:30, a little late in getting the horses. Tish driving. We had to get up a little hill. Sandy started to jump and broke the singletree. The others had gone on ahead so I started to try and overtake them. I went about two miles and found it impossible as they had the downhill. So I picked up a limb of a tree which we rigged as a singletree and we started down to Madison Valley. Stretching away smooth and flat in the distance, the valley was one of the most beautiful sights I had seen up to that time. Kate was scared almost to death going down those steep hills. We gave her all the encouragement possible, such as "This place is awful", "Gee, this hill is steep. Don't you think we had better get out and walk?", and lots of other remarks. Poor Kate, sitting in the back seat and not able to see, near died with fright and once or twice almost jumped out. Finally we reached the valley floor and drove along until we came to a farm house where we stayed for lunch. Tish and I went for milk. And talk about milk! We drank until we could drink no more. We then took a large water bucket filled with milk to the girls for which we paid 25¢. We had lunch on sardines, pork and beans, and pickles. We had no more than finished before the fiercest hail storm came up that I was ever in or witnessed. It continued for about ten minutes and came down like bullets. The horses could hardly stand it. They almost wilted. When the storm was at its height, there was another storm in the tent between Grace and Tish. She got sore at something. After the storm had --- page 15 --- [booklet p. 6] quit, we hitched up and drove to Cameron on Indian Creek. Tish and Grace had made up in the meantime. We stabled the horses here and retired, having covered 30 miles from Virginia City. ## Sixth Day, July 30 — Tuesday We decided to stay over and have the singletrees fixed and give the horses a rest. We went fishing in the morning, and in the afternoon Brinton and I went swimming. Tish joined us later. I had the greatest time of my life wallowing around in the river. I thought I would never get enough of it. We finally shaved and dressed up. In the evening the farmer invited us up to his house to dance and sing. Before going up, Tish and myself raised Grace and Maud up in the hay raise. When Grace came down, she got me around the arm and started me around in the hay stack. Tish got sore and walked away. I saw that he was feeling sore so I brought Grace over and told him to take her, which he did without a vim. We all walked over, but on the way Tish and Grace turned back. We asked them what was wrong, but they never said a word. The rest of us went in. The farmer and his daughter furnished the music, she the piano and he a fiddle. We sang and danced for about a half hour, waiting to see if Tish and Grace would come. They did not so we went back and found Tish sitting outside the tent in the dark. He told us Grace was inside sleeping. Maud went in and soon returned with Grace. We went back to the house, but Grace would not dance with Tish. We all enjoyed ourselves though, with the possible exception of Tish. A party returning from the Park was also there. They were going back to Great Falls, and a little [booklet p. 7] fellow in their party called a square dance. Some of it went this way: "Chase the weasel, chase the squirrel, and chase the pretty girls all around the world." Well, we almost broke down; the house never had a better time. We broke about midnight and went to bed. ## Seventh Day, July 31 — Wednesday Got up at 6 o'clock. We hitched up, I was driving. We drove until noon. Nothing of importance happened but the same up and down hill. We had lunch and again started at one. We had been going about an hour when Grace made up with Tish. About 4 o'clock we had been traveling in the sun, no shade, over a trackless desert you might say, no water at all in sight, just two or three large eagles hovering around. We were all pretty well done up. I turned around to Grace and asked her if she would rather be here or in the store waiting for 6 o'clock. She said she would not trade this for Hennessy'sButte: companies, unions & placesHennessy’sfounded 1886The D. J. Hennessy Mercantile Company, Butte’s leading department store. Its 1898 building at Granite and Main also housed the Anaconda company’s offices on the top floor.More in Key terms → store. Maud said, "I wish I was back there now. I'm tired of this trip and have been ever since we started." At last about 7 o'clock we sighted Henry's Lake stretching away off in the distance in the valley. What a beautiful sight it was from our vantage up on the mountains. Descending at last, we were in Idaho, the first time I had been outside the State of Montana since I landed there. We camped at a ranch house. Maud and the two Cosgroves walked about a mile to the Post Office for mail. Brinton, Ann and myself went for a boat ride. After supper I wrote a letter and retired about 10 o'clock. --- page 16 --- [booklet p. 8] ## Eighth Day, August 1 — Thursday Rose at 6:30, had breakfast, and wrote my hon's and my Monogram on a tree. I then rowed Grace and Maud down Lake Henry to the post office where I mailed a postal and a letter. We met Tish who had walked down. I rowed back and we left camp, Tish driving. [Sketch, set into the text: an interlaced monogram drawn inside a circle, captioned "A.R.K. J.J.M." (presumably Agnes Ruth Kelly and James Joseph Murphy: the entry above says he "wrote my hon's and my Monogram on a tree").] Nothing of importance happened in the morning with the exception of passing a few Monida stages loaded down with swell guys. We stopped at the store and invested in some little things such as a lantern to light on our chuck wagon to keep bears away. We repacked Dwella and then drove to the other side of the creek to camp about three hundred yards from the store where we came in contact with a Nigger traveling show, about eight in number. They told us they were going through the Park. After lunch we again started and went about a half a mile when, in turning out from a stage, we broke the singletree we had fixed at Carmen. Tish went back with Dwella but could not get another singletree, so we rigged up another affair like we fixed up on the first breakdown. [booklet p. 9] We started to enter a driveway between a line of trees on both sides of the road. It reminded me of pictures I have seen of driveways in California. It was grand. As far as you could see was the road, which led to what they call Christmas Tree Park on account of the nature of the beautiful pine forest which lined both sides of the roadway. We reached the boundary of the park at 4:10, where we came to Riverside Station, the western outpost for the protection of the park and the first Soldier Station. We registered our names and had our guns sealed. When I came out of the post, I noticed he had overlooked to take the cartridges out of Tish's gun and remarked the fact to the bunch but we did not think any more about it. We then drove about one more mile and camped for the night. One of the soldiers visited our camp after supper. He told us of his experiences, and had Kate up in the air telling stories about the bears in the park. Maud made a hit here and asked him for some buttons which he promised to bring in the morning. We all turned in. ## Ninth Day, August 2 — Friday We got up at 6:30, left camp. I drove along one of the typical mountain canyons until we came to the junction of Fire Hob and Gibbon Rivers, which is the source of the Madison. Here it was, as we read on a sign, that it was suggested by a member of the party of Cornelius Hedges that this section should be set aside as a National Park, and it was through the efforts of this party that in 1872 Congress made this region the Yellowstone National Park. --- page 17 --- [booklet p. 10] We then drove on the banks of Fire Hole River, which is a beautiful drive — the river along one side of the road, mountains, forests and green plots in turn along the other. We camped for lunch about three or four miles this side of Fountain Hotel and stayed about an hour. One of the horse's shoulders was sore, and Tish, on putting on some cure, got kicked in what May called an unmentionable place. The kick knocked him back about ten feet. He was not hurt much, just a scratch on the leg and torn pants. After lunch we drove on to Fountain Hotel. Before coming there, however, we had to report to the Lower Basin Military post. At every post we pass we have to register the names in our wagon party and show them that our guns are sealed. I registered the names alright, but when it came to showing Tish's gun, the one the seal was off, he looked at me and asked how it happened. I thought for sure I was up against it. "Why," I said, "that's sealed." He said no. I looked and sure enough, the seal was off. I looked in my pocket and found the seal — the doggone thing slipped off in taking the gun out. I explained the best I could but he seemed to think it rather strange it should be loaded and the seal broken. He marked on his register book that the gun was resealed at this station, so I didn't know how it would eventually come out. One of the soldiers gave me some buttons for the girls in our bunch. We then bade them goodbye, and reached Fountain Hotel. The girls went in and got some mail, came out, and we drove a little farther on to view the Fountain Geyser. This was the first we saw of the geysers. We were deeply impressed — so much so that Kate begged us not to go too close. We then drove a little farther on and saw the Mammoth paint pots. They are wonderful. They reminded me of a fellow mixing lime with water [booklet p. 11] the way the substance kept bubbling up all colors. Driving on we saw the other wagon. They told us to see the Excelsior Geyser. We went up with Kate continually bewailing and begging us to stop as we had gone far enough. It is 330 feet in length by 200 feet in width and the surface of the water is about 20 feet below. There is a great quantity of steam escaping all the time and the water is always bubbling and boiling. This certainly would make you think of hell. From there we went to see Prismatic Lake, which is located a little south of Excelsior Geyser. It was grand — one of the most beautiful sights I ever saw. Just imagine a large lake of clear, deep blue changing to green towards the rim, and out in the middle a yellowish shade. It certainly was grand. We proceeded to Turquoise Spring which is north of Excelsior. This pool is silent and is remarkable for its beautiful Blue Transparent water. We then went back to the wagon where Maud was holding the horses and drove towards Old Faithful. On the way we stopped to view the Gem Spring and The Ideal. At last we came in sight of Old Faithful. We camped 1½ miles this side and prepared supper. Someone cried "Look at the geyser!" and we ran headlong down the hill about 50 yards from our camp where the Riverside geyser was playing off. It was great, the first one we saw in action. After supper we all shaved and walked down to Old Faithful Inn with the object of dancing, but when we got there we had not the nerve as the place was grand, the swellest hotel I ever laid my eyes on. Coming towards it in the dark, all the light burning from the windows, the search light playing on Old Faithful, I have never seen a prettier sight in my life. --- page 18 --- [booklet p. 12] We stopped at the store about 100 yards this side and bought some postal cards which we mailed. We then went across to the hotel and were amazed. It was constructed entirely of logs and very artistically built. Inside, the lobby floors were oiled hardwood. I almost broke my neck on them. Sitting around in the chairs were men and women all swelled up, and all looked at us as we came in in our glad rags, all wrinkled from laying in the telescopes and being tossed around. But we made the best of it and walked right over to the clerk's desk, asked for our mail as though we were a duke or count or something. Of course, we did count as much as any of them around the lobby. Inside, upon looking up, you could see rows of balconies, all built of logs. The staircase was built of split logs for steps. A huge fireplace, built entirely of lava rocks, goes all the way up the four stories. A great massive clock hangs on the wall and great large doors with their quaint hinges and bolts is a sight never to be forgotten. After mailing our cards, we went out and Grace was disgusted with life after seeing those things in the hotel and the comforts of it. She was going to commit suicide to think of having to go back and crawl into that old tent "like a gopher goes into his hole," as she put it, but we jollied her up. We sat down at a table on the veranda and I felt kind of foolish and started to call Tish "Monsieur," Grace "Mademoiselle Dawson," and cut up there for awhile. We finally walked the 1½ miles back to camp. Grace was almost scared to death on the way. Behind every bush we came to she would imagine she saw a bear, but we finally reached camp in safety. [booklet p. 13] ## Tenth Day, August 3 - Saturday Since we were going to lay over here until Monday, we did not get up until 9 A.M. Grace, Tish, Maud and myself went down to the store. On the way we met a soldier who informed us that the Giantess was in action. We hurried and saw it from a distance, but when we got there it was just dying out. This was the first time in 40 days it had played. It is one of the largest geysers in the park, going 150 feet in the air. We went in the store where the girls purchased some things, and while there Old Faithful went in action. This is the most regular geyser in the park, never missing and always going off every 65 to 75 minutes every day, week, and month, all the year round, winter and summer. We then started back to camp. On the way we witnessed the Grotto play. This is a small one along side of the road, only throwing the water 30 feet in the air. We arrived at camp and had lunch. Tish went to sleep with his sore eye. I went over to Brown's camp to get a singletree. On the way back, I saw Charley talking to a girl who he introduced to me as Mrs. Coulbridge. She said she knew my face, and in the course of conversation, I found out that we had gone to school together. In the meantime, Riverside again went into action and we walked over where there were about ten carriages full of "dude ladies and men," as the transportation driver calls the hotel tourists. They call us The Sagebrushers. We then came back. Nothing of importance occurred until after supper when we were all singing and telling stories around the campfire. It started to rain and the girls' tent started to leak, so we got out --- page 19 --- [booklet p. 14] in all the rain and spread an extra canvas overside it. We went to bed soaked to the skin. ## Eleventh Day, August 4 - Sunday Rose at 9 o'clock, Tish and myself going to see the different geysers. Maud and Grace did not want to go. They would rather have an automobile to pull them around. I thought of my Little Girl, how she would be tickled. We passed the Wyle camp that looked like a little village. The first geyser we came to was the most splendid. It is one of the most remarkable of the geysers in this upper basin. It was not in action but its waters were in a state of agitation, which I am told is always the case. We then viewed the Punch Bowl, which is grand. The middle of it is always bubbling. It is surrounded by a glittering rim of tiliaceous deposit about five feet higher than the surrounding ground. A small cone-like opening at the east end of the bowl is very beautiful. It has the appearance of being lined with very fine, expensive whit or cream colored satin. A little west of this we saw a little pool which was grand. When we first saw it, the sun was behind a cloud. As we stood looking in, the sun came out and -- talk about sights! -- it fairly sparkled. We then proceeded to Black Sand Pool, which is grand, and Specimen Lake, which is also fine. We kept on walking to where we saw more steam, numerous little springs bubbling up, and many old geysers that were once active; but it is a place that is constantly changing. It reminds me very much of life -- here you are today, alive and much admired; gone tomorrow and not noticed at all, or, if you are, it is with pity. [booklet p. 15] After walking about a half mile in swampy ground, we came to Sunbright Basin. Here we saw the Emerald Pool, which is considered the most beautiful of geyser objects. We saw Sunlight Pool and the Cliff Spring, gorgeously colored. One little spring is what they call Handkerchief Spring. You put your pocket handkerchief in it and it will suck it out of sight. Wait awhile and it comes back to you out of the same hole as it was sucked into. We saw the dudes put theirs in and take them out and jump back. It is so hot it burns your fingers to even touch the water. We also saw the Artemisia Springs -- the surrounding formation is as hard as flint, quite unlike those which are soft substance. We then passed the Three Sisters and came out by the Castle Geyser. It is the oldest active one now in the park, and the composition is perhaps 100 feet high and resembles a castle from which it derives its name. We then came up the road, having made a circle and having visited everything of interest in that part. When we got to camp, we found the other party preparing to go around the formation, in and around Old Faithful. We had lunch after which I dressed up as all the swells would be down there. Tish refused to come. He said he saw enough. So I started out, met a young fellow from Chicago who is out traveling for his health. I found out he had nervous prostration from studying to hard. We walked down to Old Faithful together where I met the other part of our party. We mailed some postals, and viewed Old Faithful at close range. It certainly was beautiful, throwing the water up 150 feet, which sparkled and shone in the sun. We saw the Chinaman, so called from the color on the ground and the shape of the cone completing it. We looked into the cone of the Giantess. The water was about 15 feet down from the top and to --- page 20 --- [booklet p. 16] look at it, you would never think it would play, but it was only yesterday that it played for 15 hours continuously. We then saw the Sponge, so called from the peculiar likeness of the substance of its cone, both in color and shape. The Lion, Lioness and two Cubs are also of great interest. We arrived at the road and walked back towards camp. On the way back, we had to pass down a little ways from the Wyle camp, and there was a bunch of duds looking down our way so we gave them our yell, which is "Hello, bele, below, beloum; what the hell is the matter with us; hidie, kidie, gosh almighty; we are from Butte Dam." The bunch split up at the bridge, they going to camp, I going down the road to look after the horses which we had hobbled about one and a half miles in a good feeding place, and also to see the formation of the Fan Mortars geysers which I found to be similar to the others, only on a smaller scale. I also came across the Morning Glory Spring, which is beautiful, the water being so clear and still only slightly overflowing at one end. I then came to Biscuit Basin where to get at it I had to cross a foot bridge over Five Hole River. Here I met a party of dudes who were fishing, and also a couple of fellows from Black Hills. They were all very sociable. We viewed the principle attraction here, Sapphire Pool, whose highly ornamented margin suggests its name. Biscuit Basin's got its name from the hundreds of small symmetrical biscuit-like knobs of olive green formation surrounding the spring. A few feet west is Jewel Geyser, whose eruptions occur with remarkable frequency of from three to five minutes shooting jets from 25 to 30 feet in the air. [booklet p. 17] I then walked back and was passing Brown's camp when he called me over and offered me some 'skey. I had to refuse as I am not drinking. But I no more than sat down in Brown's tent when I heard Charlie pounding on the tin pas as a signal for supper. Nothing ever sounded better to me, as at this time I was both tired and hungry. Hurrying to camp I found them all eating. I dug right in. After supper Riverside again played and I wanted to get our bunch to go down to Old Faithful to see it play in the search light. None of the bunch wanted to go so I went to see Brown. He said he could get some of his bunch. So I went back to camp to get my coat. Just as I got there Charlie jumped up and said "Bear!" and sure enough, there between the two tents we saw a great big fellow. As soon as he heard the yell, he turned around and made for the trees behind the camp. Kate almost took a fit. She was scared to death. They all changed their minds and followed me down to Old Faithful with Brown. It was a great sight. The different colors playing on it from the searchlights made it a great deal more so. On the way back we saw three soldiers at different times with girls. Brown told us they were whores. We got to bed at 11 P.M. ## Twelfth Day, August 5th - Monday Rose at 6:30. Prepared to leave camp. Just as we started, Riverside played again. We all took one last look at it. The sun at our backs made a beautiful sight: the spray spreading out with the wind made a double rainbow encircling the whole thing and ending at our feet. We then proceeded, looking a little better since fixing our singletree. We drove and again registered, had our guns examined and this time they were all right. We then drove pass Old Faithful Inn --- page 21 --- [booklet p. 18] and up the road towards Kipplee Cascades, which we saw from a platform newly erected for that purpose. They certainly were enchanting as they leapt from shelf to shelf into the canyon to a depth of 150 feet. We then took a side trip to Lone Star geyser. We just missed it play; so we were told by Mrs. Coulbridge, who we met again coming out. We drove over anyway and saw it. This geyser's cone is striped vertically with bands of white, lavender and brown. Coming back, we were met at the main road by a soldier who put up his hand for us to stop. We thought sure we were in for it. He drove up and asked us if we were going to Thumb Station. We told him yes. He asked us to do him a favor and deliver a message for him to a Mr. H. Anderson, which we told him we would do. We proceeded on our way and came to Shoshone Point on the divide, which gave us a commanding view of all the surrounding country. We caught a glimpse of Shoshone Lake. We also saw three snow capped sentinels of the Teton Mountains, 50 miles distant, that form a boundary between Idaho and Wyoming. Their dizzy heights, we are told, is fully 14000 feet overtopping all other peaks of the Rockies. About a mile this side of Thumb station, I saw Lake View, the largest body of water I have seen in 15 years, and it looked good. We drove one-half mile more and camped. After supper Brinton and myself went fishing on the lake. We caught some from the shore, and working our way around discovered a raft. We jumped on, pushed out and started to fish. Tish came over and called out that there was a dance at Thumb Station one-half mile away. But there is no dancing for me when [booklet p. 19] the fishing is like it was. Great big fellows swam all around and under our raft. At last, as it was growing dark, we got out the poles to push back and were pretty scared to find that the fifteen foot pole could just touch bottom. A couple of yards more out and we would have been beyond our depth and, like as not, have floated all night with the wind. But we worked with the little pusher and landed wet but happy on account of the good sport we had. Going back we had quite a time getting out of the timber. Ann and Mrs. Emerson had joined us, and we had to wait for them. We finally got back to camp about 9 o'clock. George and May had built a bonfire. We all got around and swapped fish stories and went to bed about 11 pm. The rest did not get back until after 11. ## Thirteenth Day, August 6th - Tuesday Slept late on account of the fishing the night before. Just as we were ready to start, Grace and Maud went up to the soldiers camp; Tish was cussing and sore. They came back in a half hour when we were ready to start our drive. We went past the station where we again had our guns inspected. The girls chewed the rag with the soldiers for awhile. We then drove along the lake shore. Here is where I met a sight that I certainly appreciated: almost as far as I could see looking right ahead was water. It was great. The drive was fine for a couple of miles. The route then turned into the hills again, and we lost sight of the lake, only catching glimpses of it occasionally. We meting a bunch from Butte going the other way. --- page 22 --- [booklet p. 20] The only other noteworthy part of this stretch were the hot water pools right along side of the lake. It seems so strange that hot water should bubble right out of the banks surrounding the lake and the lake so cold. It was all very wonderful. We at last came to The Lake Hotel, which is a grand one, the most up-to-date in the park. I sent a postal. We camped, all washed our heads and shaved, had supper and got ready to go back to the hotel, at about 7 pm. We went inside. The floor was so slippery that I slid a yard when I first struck it. I bet the guests that looked up thought I was a regular rube. We then went down to the lake, saw the little steamer, also the breakers driving in on the shore. We returned and Archibald, May, Ann, William Bird, Brinton and myself sat around the campfire and were talking away when out of the darkness slipped two soldiers. They wanted us to sing. One of them was a scarpit that played at Thumb Station for the dance, so we told him we would sing if he would play. He said he would play if someone would go over and get his mandolin. I offered, then they all joined. We got over there and the sergeant discovered that his instrument had not been returned from Thumb Station. So he pulled down the phone receiver and dug into the fellow down there who answered the call, calling him all the sons-of-guns he could think of. He then pulled out a bottle and passed it along. We were shown how the new Springfield Army rifles worked, and the different positions you could take with them, after which we again went back to camp. After singing a little, they bade us goodnight and invited us to a boat ride tomorrow and to a dance having in the evening. [booklet p. 21] I forgot to mention in my hurry that we are now camped in full sight of the Sleeping Giant. ## Fourteenth Day, August 7th - Wednesday Rose rather late on account of staying over. Brinton and I prepared our rods and tackle, got breakfast ahead of the others and went over to the station to meet Jim, the soldier who invited us to go boating with him. He took us to his boat and towed us out into the lake and down the river where we fished for about four hours. Say, talk about sport! Nothing I have ever seen yet can equal it. Great big fellows fairly jumped out of the water at the hooks, then the reel would spin as they played out. We would reel them in to the front where Jim would take them off the hook. There was nothing to it. In fact, it seemed a shame to take the money while we were thus enjoyed. A storm suddenly came up. Jim started to pull up the stream into the lake where we got the full benefit of the wind, the boat raising and descending with every wave. I felt great. I wished the waves would go even higher. I was in the height of my glory. I never felt better. Brinton sat in the middle holding on. I laughed at him. But Jim took us straight to shore because all the rowing was too much like work. We hitched the boat and slipped Jim a couple of dollars, thanking him. We went up to the station where one of the soldier cooks gave us a pan of newly baked buns to take to camp with our fish. Brinton and I dug into them and a can of Pork & Beans; the girls had made lemonade. Jim came down a little later and showed us how to cut them down the back for broiling. --- page 23 --- [booklet p. 22] In the afternoon I went to find Jim so I could go swimming. The soldiers at the station told me I might find him in the tents back in the woods. I found him, the sergeant, and three of our bunch finishing the booze. They were all pretty far gone; but I got Jim to take me down to the boathouse where Brinton, Tish and I went swimming in the lake. I felt like a new person after coming out and drying well. While we were dressing, Jim proposed that we take my rifle and go across the lake where he would give me a chance to shoot some chicken and wild geese. Going up to the station, we went in and examined the floor where we are to dance tonight. They had put cornmeal on it, and it certainly was slick. We all went over to camp where Jim broke the seal on my gun; after which we had supper. I waited around for Jim after the others had prepared for the dance. He came about 8 pm, but the hunting proposition had fallen through, because a scout was around and we would run the chance of getting caught. So I got ready for the dance. Brinton, Ann and I got the boat where we had left it in the little inlet that morning and had a boat ride and up to the dance. It was the greatest ever, rowing out there in the dusk, seeing nothing but the waves close by and feeling their gentle swell. When we got there, we found about seven heavers, about 10 soldiers and about five sprinklers. We were all introduced. The girls were alright and we had a fine time. Maloney was afraid, I suppose, that one of the soldiers would run off with Grace because they left about 15 minutes after it started. Maud sat around with a sour smile and I never went near her all night. She and the Cosgroves left about one half hour after Tish and Grace. [booklet p. 23] The rest of us stuck, and we had a fine time. I got into a square dance that a woman was calling, and it was out of sight. The music we had was a mandolin, played by the sergeant's girl, and a guitar played by himself. We got home about 11:30 and sat around the campfire. After we went to bed, we heard a noise around our chuck wagon and, on investigating, found two bears, big fellows, which we chased away by yelling at them. ## Fifteenth Day, August 8th - Thursday Rose at 8:30. Went and had my gun resealed by Sergeant Graff. In getting ready to travel, I heard Grace say she was going to get lunch enough for herself and Tish. Maud said she was going to get enough for herself. They said it loud enough for me to hear them. I paid no attention but went ahead and when I got around to it, got some for myself. They all seemed to be sore. I guess it was because I'd suggested to Brinton last night that we go to the dance in the boat, and left Maud to go with Tish and Grace. Well, she can go to the devil for all I care. When we got ready to go, we broke the hold back strap on Ginger and I had to fix it. I made up my mind to go in the wagon and talk with them all if they acted right; if they did not, they could go to the devil. Nell struck up a conversation right away by passing me a box of candy. Maud sat there like a stick. We went ahead and drove along the Yellowstone River. The first thing of interest we came to was the Mud Geysers. The first two were extinct, but by going a little farther --- page 24 --- [booklet p. 24] up the road, we came to the largest. It was awful. You look down about 15 feet and are greeted by a cloud of steam, smelling strongly of sulphur. There seems to be three openings in the bottom out of which the mud is shot up and steam with it, and the awfullest rumblings you ever heard. A little west of this Charlie and myself went where we saw a cloud of steam shooting out and discovered an opening in the side of a cliff like an opening in a huge old fashioned stone fireplace, out of which puffs of steam and streams of water were pouring with every puff and rumbling -- like the mud geysers. It certainly shows that fire and water are having an awful battle underneath this. The valve of hell, I call it. We then arrived in Hayden Valley where is located the Sulphur Mountain which is largely composed of sulphur from which it derives its name. The next thing of interest is the Grand Canyon bridge, which is a newly erected one, and from which you can see the water boil and foam over the rocks at the bottom. We crossed this and met the Brown outfit which we saw up at the fountain camp. We missed our others and the chuck wagon, so we retraced our route and met Bird and Will on the bridge. They told us they were camped just the other side. We were confused for awhile picking out our outfit from among the dozens that literally covered the ground. Here, after supper as we — that is Bird, Will, May, Ann and myself — were sitting around talking, a deer strolled right past our camp. Someone hollered to look. The deer looked around but that was all and kept right on as unconcerned as though nothing had happened. They are not afraid of anything, and seem [booklet p. 25] to know there is no danger. This makes the tenth we have seen on our trip. Charlie and myself then took a stroll down the road and saw the upper falls. This is the small one, 140 feet of a drop. It was beautiful and grand. A stairway went down to a platform from which you can see it fine. The coloring on the opposite bank was beautiful, and as the spray from the falls flew up, it changed to a purplish shade. It certainly was a sight I would not want to miss. We then strolled down the road past the soldier's station and, as it was growing dark, we turned back. We met two from Brown's camp, a fellow by the name of Snyder and another they call Hi. He is a great character. He is the cook for Brown, who told me this is the first time he has ever done any work. Hi started to tell me about Miss Alice Roosevelt's visit to his camp. She knew the party and she certainly had a dandy riding costume. He said it was a blossom. It consisted of a pair of patent leather boots, leggings to the knees, regular riding pants, and a coat that was cut in a style similar to a Prince Albert that men wear. He said she jumped off her horse, put her whip under one arm, her gloves in her left hand and a cigarette in her right. You ought to have seen Hi pose as he said she did, but he said she was all right and a good jolly sport. It was too bad she married an old stiff like she did. We then went to bed. --- page 25 --- [booklet p. 26] ## Sixteenth Day, August 9th - Friday We stayed over here to see the Grand Canyon at 10:30. I went with the other bunch. Grace and Tish made up their minds at the last minute and came along. We struck Uncle Tom's trail winding in and out, always going down, meeting people on their way up resting at every little turn as it is an awful climb. We finally reached the last platform which gives you a beautiful view of the Great Falls of the Yellowstone, which takes a straight leap of 360 feet, the spray from it condensing on the side of the canyon and making little streams back into the river; also the sun shining from the back made all kinds of colors play in and out of the spray. You could see a rainbow encircling the whole thing. The sides of the canyon rose up to a height of 1200 to 1500 feet. It is beautifully colored with every color imaginable. I had often thought that the colored postals and pictures we see exaggerated it, but no, it is impossible to describe its beauty and grandeur. We then climbed back up. Tish and Grace went back to camp and we proceeded to Artists Point which was selected by Thomas Moran when he painted his celebrated picture now hanging in the Nation's Capital in Washington, D. C. On our way back up the trail we had to rest about a dozen different times on account of the girls. On one platform I carved our monogram. Reaching the top, we came to Shaw's camp when he told us Miss Reid was with his party last week. He entertained us royally. We then went a little farther where we had lunch, after which we rested about a half hour. While we were resting, little birds came right up to us to eat our crumbs and pieces of meat so [booklet p. 27] that if we wanted to we could stretch out our hands and touch them. We finally reached Artist's Point which gave us the best view of the Canyon we had yet struck, spending about an hour there looking around, admiring the beautiful scenery. We started back, meeting a Wyle coach with a lot of dudes in it. We gave them our yell and shocked some of the poor things. When a coach would come along, we would all get in line, get into the lock step and whistle the tune. We had all kinds of fun. Back in camp, I sent a postal up to the hotel by Charlie. After supper a guide from Shaw's camp came over and told us that he had guided Miss Reid around the park. She had left last week. He said she had told him about us and was very much disappointed in not meeting us. After he left, I was reading a book when I heard someone calling me. I looked around and saw Mrs. Coulbridge and Maud a little below camp. She beckoned me down and said there was a dance at the Soldier's Station, and asked me to come and take Maud. Maud looked at me and smiled. It was the first time since Wednesday afternoon that she spoke. I told her "Yes, I would go and Maud could come if she wanted to." Maud and I then got ready and went up to Mrs. Coulbridge's camp, where we got her and two more and walked down to the station. We met a soldier and he said it was at Wylie's Camp. We worked our way over there in the dark, but nothing was doing so we went back to Mrs. Coulbridge's camp where we sat around their campfire and related our different experiences since we started out. We broke about 11:30, got back to camp and went to bed. --- page 26 --- [booklet p. 28] ## Seventeenth Day, August 10th - Saturday Rose at 9 A.M. It was raining when we got up but promised to clear up. We struck an old path to see this side of the Canyon. We walked along the edge of the river until we came to a platform over the top of the Grand Falls, erected for the benefit of the tourists. Here we could look straight down along the line of the Falls and it was grand. We then climbed up the stairs and counted 495 steps. The weather became threatening. It had been gradually growing darker and we no more than reached the top when a regular snow storm struck, but we stuck to it and proceeded along to Point Lookout. When we got there, we were unable to see anything as the wind and snow twisted and twirled around and up the canyon. So we turned back on our two mile tramp through snow, back to camp. We rustled up a lot of wood and stood around to dry. The storm by this time had stopped. We got inside the tent, cooked some fudge, and George made a chile con carne. We dug in and certainly did justice to that meal. After supper two officers whom one of the girls had met came up and invited us down to their camp. It was the Sixth Infantry from Fort Harrison near Helena on a practice march through the park. We went down and saw the privates' little tents, which looked like little dog houses -- in fact some of the soldiers call it dog town. The officers had large tents resembling ours. Kate made a hit with one of the soldiers and wanted us to stay over one more day as they were going to rest on Sunday -- although earlier she'd been the most determined to go. What a difference a man makes! [booklet p. 29] After seeing all there was to see, and hearing the bugles sounding taps, we started back and met the transportation coaches coming from the Canyon Hotel where the army band had given a concert. The officers got out and we all tumbled in. On our way to the bridge we met some more coaches coming and gave them our yell. They all encored. We had a grand time. ## Eighteenth Day, August 11th - Sunday Started for Norris at about 11 A.M. after spending a couple of hours catching our horses which we always hobble and turn out to graze. On the ride to Norris we passed the Wedded Tree, which rises out of the ground about one foot apart and then a limb grows from one into the other. It certainly is a freak of nature. It was all downhill and we had Nell and Kate scared to death. The horses were feeling fine. After a two day rest, and as one of them was always scary, the girls were up in the air. They called and begged me to go slower, but the horse would not hold in. Then Maud and Grace would make it worse for them for whenever we would come to a turn, one or the other would sing out "Lord, we are going right over this bank. Jump girls." The Cosgroves, sitting in the back seat and not able to see the road very well, were about driven crazy and once or twice almost jumped out. Finally, after passing the Virginia Falls, we came to Norris and camped at 2:30. We had supper and went to take in the Basin. On the way we came to the lunch station where I mailed a postal. We saw the Congress Spring, crossed over a plank pathway, and came to the Black Growler, which we could plainly hear fine from our camp --- page 27 --- [booklet p. 30] about a mile away. It is the only thing of any importance for us now as all the large geysers and hot pools in the upper basin have this one skimmed 50 blocks. But of course this is a newly discovered basin, and all that we are looking at will one day be as large and as powerful as the upper basin pools and geysers. The next was the Emerald Pool which is very pretty. Then we came to what they call the new crater. This one had been playing through another opening about five feet away, which in some way got stopped up and it blew out this new crater. You can see rocks torn and broke and scattered all around for hundreds of yards. We then came to the Monarch Geyser which plays every 12 hours. This is the King of Geysers. Here sings a stream of water 100 feet in the air. The next attraction is the Minute Man. We sat down and watched it play a dozen different times, and it was always on time. Then we came to the Bathtub. This is a crater which is shaped like a tub from which it gets its name. It bubbles and boils and sputters, flowing over, then cooling down. The water sinks about three feet from the top, then comes up again. It does this about every five minutes and looked as though people were bathing. Here I took a picture of the bunch, which, by the way, I call the Invincible Seven. I also took a picture of bears feeding about ten feet distant. We came to camp about 7:30. We built a large campfire and sat around telling stories and singing songs -- several being sung solely for me. We put large rocks in the fire to heat. When we got ready for bed we carried them in our tents to heat them up. We had to do this as the previous night was awful cold. I'd [booklet p. 31] slept with everything on including a sweater, and was then a trifle uncomfortable. Tonight is just as cold. ## Nineteenth Day, August 12th - Monday Got up at 9 A.M., had breakfast and hitched up our wagons. Prepared a lunch and started out to take in the Norris Basin. We came to what I had seen last night, but I took Kate, Maud and Nell through again, meeting Tish in his wagon about a mile farther down. We then drove on, passing through Elk Park, a beautiful little valley, then into Gibbon Canyon where we witnessed the Gibbon Falls. We came to Iron Spring where we unhitched our horses and had lunch. While eating I had to jump from the wagon when Sandy jumped and tugged at his halter tied to the wagon. This frightened Kate and Nell out of their senses. Nell jumped clean out and Kate after her. Here the transportation coaches started to come up and all stopped at the spring and drank. I met a couple of girls that I knew. We then hitched up and started back. We passed Byrl Spring, also a little deer, and got back to camp about 3 P.M. We had supper and built a big bonfire. About 10 o'clock two girls and two fellows came up. A girl looked a great deal like "A." She got busy right away, told us she was from Lander, Wyoming, and that herself and five more were going through the park. I was sitting across the way from her, the fire between us. She said to me "Now, if I give you something, don't tell anybody," and she threw over a piece of fudge. George then started to say "That is a nice way to come over to a camp and give but one a piece of candy." She only had one more, which she divided up all around. --- page 28 --- [booklet p. 32] They then left, saying they would see us at Mammoth. We then got our hot rocks in the tents, which certainly is a success at keeping them warm. ## Twentieth Day, August 13th - Tuesday Got up at 6 A.M. and got ready to start for Mammoth. While putting on the harness, Ginger stepped on my foot. Gee, I was hopping around there for one-half hour. We got started about 8 A.M. I drove. The first thing of interest is the Mineral Lake, then the Twin Lakes, then Beaver Lake. On the stream feeding this lake were several beaver dams. On the other side of the roadway for about a half mile is the Obsidian Cliff. The road is hewed right out of this glass mountain, which rises about 250 feet. Then came the Apollinaris Spring, which is just like the water of the same name you can get in town. Here we all got off and drank. Some liked it, others did not. As for me I drank three cups full. We then pulled out, Electric Peak in the distance. This is the highest mountain in the northern part of the Park, and derived its name from the fact that a great deposit of mineral here renders the surveyor's instrument useless, and whenever there is a thunder storm you can witness a peculiar electric display. The summit is 11,125 feet high. We then started into the Golden Gate Canyon. The scenery here is wild but grand. The roadway is just wide enough to let two wagons pass, the mountain towering up on one side of it, then the canyon going way down on the other. Here Kate got nervous going downhill and wanted to get out, but we jollied her into staying [booklet p. 33] where she was. We passed Rustic Falls, then came to Golden Gate Viaduct. Here the road had to be made of concrete. It was the most difficult piece of work the government engineers met with. We then came to the Woodrow Mountains where the rocks are a contrasting light color with a wild aspect. Kate remarked that the rocks looked like ghosts and that she would not want to go through there at night. Then we passed through the Silver Gate which is two big blocks of limestone and is fine. Then we came to our first terrace, Minerva Terrace, streaked with all colors, the warm water passing so smooth over them it fairly dazzled your eyes. We drove around and camped about 1-1/2 miles west of Mammoth. In coming into camp, Charlie, the cook's husband, drove the chuck wagon into a swamp, which almost swallowed up one of the horses. We had to unhitch them and get two more, hitch the four onto the back to pull it out, while Brinton, Will and I hung onto the tongue to steer it. We were slung around like dolls. Tish and Brinton drove to Gardiner to get provisions as we were all out. In fact, we had to eat a couple of cans of tomatoes until they came back. I received my first letter and felt 100% better. We then prepared supper and filled ourselves up. After supper Charlie said he quit the job and said she could stay if she wanted to -- meaning his wife -- as there were no strings on her. He was sore because Will told him that when the wagon started for Gardiner he was to stay around camp. But, as he is a whiskey fiend, he walked down and back, which is 10 miles. See what drink will do for you. We decided that as long as he quit we would get along without his wife also, as it would make it bad for her, and we paid them off. They left after dark down the road --- page 29 --- [booklet p. 34] towards Mammoth while we sat around the campfire, planning who would do the cooking. The girls were not a bit discouraged. Maud decided to go home tomorrow. Thank heaven! [Ed. Interesting that Maud decided to leave the day Jim got his first letter. Perhaps the letter was from "A."] We got a new scheme for comfort in sleeping: we dug a hole under our hips. I slept fine, felt better in the morning with no soreness. ## Twenty-First Day, August 14th - Wednesday Rose at 7 A.M. Readied Sandy and Ginger to haul Maud into Gardiner and accompany her while we stopped at camp and fixed up everything handy for the girls to cook. Brin cooked this morning and put up a fine meal. Tish said he did not know if he would have a girl coming back as she said she might go to Butte with Maud. May made fudge. When the escort returned, Brinton said he received a telegram from Wharton saying to come back at once. George called me to one side and said Brinton was afraid for his job, that he was a wind jammer, and that it was impossible to get a telegram as the operators were all out on strike. We then dressed up and the seven went down to Mammoth. We met our former cook and her husband on the way, also Morris, the swatter we met at Riverside. Bird pointed out the Devil's Thumb to me, which is a cone right in the side of a terrace which is now dead. I also saw Liberty Cap. We then went in a curio shop where they have all kinds of things coated with the sediment of the terraces. We then went to the post office, which is across the way from the Hotel. Here Ann was told that a special delivery [booklet p. 35] letter had come for her and they had sent it to the hotel. She went there and got it, and it said come right home as her sister was very sick and not expected to live. She felt awfully bad as she wanted to stay and the rest of us felt rather discouraged. But we soon braced up and started back to camp. We met swatters almost every 10 feet all the way back to camp with their heavers. When we got back, there was Morris talking and jollying Kate, Nell, and Grace. Grace thought he was grand. ## Twenty-Second Day, August 15th - Thursday Rose at 6 A.M. Bill's and my turn to build a fire and bring in the horses. Left for Gardiner with Brinton and Ann at 9 A.M., Ann making the rounds of the bunch before leaving, Morris also riding with me. We drove through Mammoth, stopping at the post office and at the hotel to see if there was any more mail. Received none. The place looked grand in the daytime. Cement sidewalks all around, finely kept green lawns, and water flowing in between. The hotel is a three-story frame, painted a dark red, and is a swell looking affair. The office headquarters is all white with red roofs. And there is a storehouse for the engineer corps, costing $35,000 to erect. Large shade trees surround everything. We then drove away following the Boiling River at the bottom of the Gardiner Canyon, past the Eagle Nest Rock, where the cliffs are 15,000 feet above the roadway. On top of this rock is an eagle's nest. The swatters say that sometimes you can see the young flopping around in there. --- page 30 --- [booklet p. 36] We reached Gardiner. Brinton and Ann left for the depot. Morris and I purchased a few things in a curio store, then got our double trees, which we had broken bringing big logs to camp the night before; also the tugs of our harness. Here we again met Charlie and his wife. He asked me to let him ride up to Mammoth with us. I said sure. On the way he pulled out a quart and offered me some. I turned it over to Guy. He took my share and his. We also got a man by the name of Bob Walsh to drive the chuck wagon to Butte for us; he left us a half mile this side of the Fort. Charlie and his wife left us at Mammoth. We picked up Bill and his wife, George, and May at Devil's Thumb. They had been over to the Terraces and were tired out. We got to camp. Nell and Kate cooked dinner. While we were eating, Charlie and his wife came in and seemed taken aback to discover we were enjoying such a fine meal. Afterwards, Bob, Charlie and I took in the formations. Jupiter Terrace is the largest and most colorful and beautiful of the formations to be seen here. The boiling water flowing over it so smoothly is not noticeable until you come close up. Then we came to Minerva Terrace, smaller than Jupiter, Cupid's Cave, Orange Geyser, Bath Lake, and, what I wanted to see most, the Devil's Kitchen. But here I was disappointed for I expected to see all kinds of hot griddles, frying pans, pokers, lifters, and shovels. Instead we found a tree with the sign "Devil's Kitchen" next to a hole in the ground with a ladder going down. Charlie balked, but we finally got him to go down with us. It was nothing but a hole in the ground with a few bats flying around or hanging from the top by their claws. When we came back to Mammoth the swatters were playing ball and it was fierce. Back at camp we found nine more swatters [booklet p. 37] all dancing around on the grass in time with a mouth organ someone was playing. Morris was there with Grace's coat on. Once we all got tired of that someone proposed to walk down to the Buffalo Corral. It was dark but we started anyway. Grace, who was ahead with Tish, came back and caught hold of my arm. Tish was sore and would not come back. We were all singing and had a glorious old time until one of the swatters fell down and got knocked out. He had been drinking too much, and when he came to, was mean and wanted to fight. A couple of his pals started him back to the fort, and we went back to camp where Morris told us some more of his experiences, which is all wind. ## Twenty-Third Day, August 16th - Friday I got up after they pulled the tent off me, had breakfast and broke camp at 9 A.M. Tish drove. Mr. Virgh, who had been up to our camp before, came to see us again, but as we were leaving, he got into the seat with me which I'd had all to myself. We drove down to the post office and hotel for mail, but there was none. We then drove to the fort, had the seals on our guns removed and registered our whole party out. Just as we were going down, we saw one of the swatters, who had got drunk the night before, cutting grass with a long scissors, and another with a gun standing guard over him. He looked awful cheap. One-half mile farther Virgh wished us all a good time and left. Arriving at Gardiner, I got an unexpected letter from my Hon, and felt as though I was walking on air the rest of the day. --- page 31 --- [booklet p. 38] We met two girls who had just arrived from Butte and took the bunch for ice cream sodas. We left Gardiner by the Arch which is a dandy; inscribed on it was "For the benefit and pleasure of the people." Coming over a very steep hill, we stopped for lunch a little ways from a ranch. Tish and I bought some milk and eggs, bringing back the pitcher she had given us to carry the milk. Her husband asked me to look up an Al Livingston and write him -- L. M. Allen, Electric, Montana. His wife in the meantime had picked a bunch of flowers and gave them to me. They were awful nice people. When I got back, everyone said they were going to tell "A." when they got back. Driving up and down some more hills, we came to Yankee Jim Canyon. Here we met the old gentleman himself, who told us that in the early days -- some sixty years ago -- he had constructed this roadway through the canyon, and charged toll on all who passed to the park, and made quite a little bunch on it. He was a nice little fellow with a long white beard -- a regular old-timer. He wanted us to camp here for the night, but we wanted to go farther. So we moved on and stopped about two miles from Dailey's Emigrant at 5:30 P.M. Here we sat around the campfire after supper and told ghost stories, and old deserted house across the road being the cause of starting them. We then retired. ## Twenty-Fourth Day, August 17th - Saturday Rose at 6:30, wind blowing fiercely. Will and myself went after the horses, broke camp about 9:30. [booklet p. 39] We passed through Dailey's Emigrant and came to Trail Creek where we ate lunch, and had the pictures of the wagons taken. Continuing the drive, we came to Chimney Rock, whose townsfolk work in the coal mines of Trail Creek Co. The men, women, and children were running around barefoot, dirty as could be. We purchased some cream in the filthiest store I ever saw. We camped about a half mile away and were pretty hungry after our long, dirty and tiresome ride. After supper we cleaned our guns, our first chance since having the seals removed at Mammoth. ## Twenty-Fifth Day, August 18th - Sunday Rose at 7:30. Tish was sick and could not eat. I drove in his place. We passed through Stories and Chestnut, coal mining towns. We saw the cook ovens in Stories. After leaving Chestnut, we entered the agriculture district and saw the greatest stretch of grain -- wheat, oats, barley, etc. -- I have ever seen. We passed the cemetery and entered Bozeman. We passed right through the town, stopping on the outskirts where we intended camping. We discovered the water was bad so we drove around, after eating a very light lunch, and passed the ballgrounds where they had a very large attendance. We continued uptown again, all the people rubbering, and finally drove out on the north side, having discovered no camping grounds. Coming to Belgrade, we stopped and asked about a camping ground. The nearest we were told was five miles. It was the longest five miles I ever saw. When we finally arrived it was just --- page 32 --- [booklet p. 40] as bad as any we had seen before, so we kept on. The cook, who led, passed a couple of good places, but he was out of sight so we had to follow him up. At last we caught up. We turned into a farmer's field, but after all the wagons were in, we got cold feet -- afraid the farmer would have us arrested. We decided to go back to those good places. The horses were all in by the time we arrived. We pitched camp at 8 P.M. and had supper by lamplight. While George and I were fixing the beds, May and Grace butted in and tried to run things. We were all pretty tired, and as soon as the beds were ready, we tumbled in. ## Twenty-Sixth Day, August 19th - Monday Left camp at 9:30, Tish driving. Before leaving, Bird dropped a postal to Bozeman, asking them to forward any mail there for the bunch. We had our horses shoed in Manhattan which delayed us about one and a half hours. The other bunch ahead passed through Three Forks and took the wrong road. I got out at a farm house and inquired our way. They directed me, and in coming out, a dog ran after me growling. I spoke nice to him and he seemed to be pacified, and I forgot him. But in closing the gate, he had worked around and grabbed me by the leg. I made a kick at him but he was away off and slinking under the fence. Driving along, we came in sight of the rest at Willow Creek where we had intended to camp but could not find any place, so we kept on until we came to a farm house where a girl was hanging over the gate. She told us we could come right in and camp in a field behind the house, which we were glad to do. [booklet p. 41] After supper I was reading and they wanted some flour and asked Tish to go after it. He would not go unless I went. I refused and Bird got a razor strap after me. I led her a merry chase and finally, after fooling about 3/4 of an hour, I said I would go myself. Tish wanted to come but I told him either to go alone or I would go alone, so I went. I had a talk with the farmers for about an hour. I went back to camp, and we sat around the bonfire and told stories. ## Twenty-Seventh Day, August 20th - Tuesday Rose at 8 A.M. Bird and Will got breakfast. The farmer came down to see how we were getting along. We pulled out at 9:10, I driving and surely feeling fine. We had to drive back to Willow Creek to get the right road and we hit an awful uphill grade getting into Jefferson Valley where we stopped for lunch and had some fresh milk. They told us we were 20 miles from Jefferson Island. We passed an auto with Butte people on the way, and Kate and Nell almost jumped out of the wagon, scared the horses would run away. We got to Jefferson Island about 6 P.M. and had to camp in a pasture behind the store there. George and I shaved. After supper we saw a horse and a calf playing tag. It was the cutest thing I ever saw. Wrote my Hon a letter and went to bed. --- page 33 --- [booklet p. 42] ## Twenty-Eighth Day, August 21st- Wednesday Rose at 6 A.M., built the fire, called Nell and Kate to cook. I mailed my letter, and we drove three miles from Jefferson where we camped to give the horses a rest. Tish and I drove to Whitehall for our mail forwarded to from Bozeman, but were very much disappointed at not receiving any. Met a Mrs. White, who is now living at Jefferson, and is married to a Mr. Noble. She likes it very much. Drove back and Bob and I went fishing. After supper we sat around the campfire and told stories about the boys who work on the railroad, and had the girls up in the air. After they went to bed, we got our guns out and played that a fellow came to camp and wanted to stay all night, but we would not have him so he pulled his gun and fired, and we fired back, finally killing him. Kate was up in bed and crying and praying. We also met John Norris in Whitehall. ## Twenty-Ninth Day, August 22nd - Thursday Rose at 7:30, broke camp at 9 A.M, I driving. Along the road Nell saw a snake coming from the opposite direction. I stopped and recognized it as a rattler, and told Tish to go out and kill it, which he did. I had Grace hold the lines and got out; held the snake's head with a stick while Tish cut the rattlers off. He had six and a button. [booklet p. 43] We again passed through Whitehall and inquired for mail. I was disappointed again. We then had ice cream sodas and started for Bennet's Ranch where we arrived at 2 P.M. After the long tiresome uphill drive, we camped. May and Grace got dinner, after which I and Bob took a walk, came back and started to read. Then Grace called me over and asked me to let her have a pair of pants and a coat as herself and May were going to dress up. I did. George and Tish, while they were dressing, took the Kodak and walked off. Then they came back, we were all shooting from my rifle, but they were sour. Come to find out, they did not want the girls to dress that way. But the girls stuck to it, and as darkness gathered, Bill built a bonfire. Here we sat around and sang while Tish and George went in the tent to read. May and Grace then started to sing, coaxed and teased me, and went so far as to enter the tent. George and Tish sprang up and ran down the road. We all laughed. I tried to read a magazine but Bird, Grace and May took it away saying "No reading on the last night." May and Grace then changed again and came out in their own clothes. In the meantime George and Tish came back, went in the tent, while we all sat around the fire, told stories and sang everything we knew. About 10 P.M. the girls went to bed, and the boys came out to get warm. They had almost froze in the tent. We all went to bed then. ## Thirtieth Day, August 23rd - Friday Rose at 7:30, Bird cooking, Tish driving. --- page 34 --- [booklet p. 44] While getting everything in readiness, an auto passed. Tish recognized May Dennison and called to her. I did also, but she only looked. I guess she did not know us, or we looked too tough for her. About 10 A.M. we started for Butte. Arriving at the Nine Mile, we had our pictures taken. We arrived in Butte at 1:30 P.M. We drove to Grace's, Ann's, Maud's and my own house, distributing all our belongings. We then drove to George's and had lunch, after which we returned the tents, wagons, and horses, getting through at about 4:30 P.M. I went home to change, had a hair-cut, shave and shampoo at the barber-shop, had supper, and called at my Hon's house, the first time in 30 days. Gee, how glad I was to be back again, and have her near me! [right half blank] --- page 35 --- [blank leaf] --- page 36 --- [back cover, plain]